Lima and beyond
Tuesday, 12 June 2007
Neither one of us had high hopes for Lima, no one we talked to about Lima was particularly inthused about it and i can see why as its basically just a large city with large city problems such as poverty, polution, and being on the coast a dull winter fog fills the air. We spent around 5 days and didn't get up to much culturlly, we went to the national museum but by the time we got to Lima we were both travel weary and very much broke so we decided to call it a day on our adventure. We spent the first few days rescheduling flights to the earliest possible date, in the end booking an outbound flight to sao paulo on the 12th and getting to Rio De jeneiro on the morning on the 13th, giving us just 5 hours to see of Rio before we have a flight back to heathrow. I don't know if we'll get to see much of Rio in that time but it was the only flight that would fit in with our plans and either way theres always next time as i know i'll be back in South and Central America another day, theres still so much left to do and see.
I may be burnt out and poorer than i'd like now but these last 5 months have been the best of my life, we've done so much more than we ever planned for, after all we arrived in New York with nothing more for a travel itinirary for the next 3 months than a outgoing flight from San Fancisco. During our time in the US we met a lot of great people, some we'll keep in contact with no doubt and some we may never see again. It wasn't all fun, god knows Greyhound is not a comfortable ride and Miami could be left unexplored as could a few other city but for the most part Americans welcomed us with open arms and some of them even into their homes without even knowing them for as much as 48 hours. We arrived into Buenos Aires on the 1st without any real knowledge of what we were gonna be doing there or even a competent grasp of the language but as two months went by we started understanding little questions or answers we got in bus stations or far out hotels and hostels and i really enjoyed my time in latin America. I didn't have a clue what to expect of South America or if i'd even like it but now as im writing this i know i've got a lot more left to do here and i've had an amazing time over here.
Thanks to those who donated, thanks to those who lent a hand or floor to sleep on, thanks to everyone who helped us out along the way, and last but not least thanks to anyone whos taken the time to read this blog however many times for the last five months
Dejan
Scribbled By Dejan @ 5:42:00 PM,
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Machu Picchu by Dejan
Well i did it! Aaadrian! I did it!
ahem, Macu Picchu was immense, we had quite a good mix of a group of around 16 people, including a group of young danes who led the pack, a canadian, a 'merkan, and two norwegians.
Victor, our guide, assured us the first day was "easy" where as the 2nd day was the hardest of the 4 day trek. Perhaps we just weren't prepared for how hard this trek was because the first day was far from easy, the beatiful views soothed my aching bones though and the camp site at the end of the day was perched at the end of a cliff that overlooked a beatiful snow capped mountain. The second day was an early start, as all the days seemed to be on this trek, and a hell of a day it was too. It began with an hours walk at around a 50/70 degree incline following corner after corner where a steeper incline awaits. I learned 3 things about Victor on this trip...
1-'inca flat' doesnt mean anything like the word flat suggests, inca flat actually means going up and down small mounds for several hours as a rest bite from near vertical climbs
2-"easy" means easy if your definition of easy is 5 hours of walking
3- he likes Axl Rose, but i digress
As i was saying the first part of the trek on the morning of day 2 was a painful incline up the mountains and finally reaching Dead Womans pass but not before an even steeper incline for several hours, when you see Dead Womans pass or rather you when you think you see it, you get a jolt of energy and start thinking like its the home straight and not much more left, such foolish thought quickly vanish into the breeze as you realise past that hill is a higher hill and past that hill is an even steeper, higher one, by the time you reach Dead Womans pass and you're amongst the clouds you've spent your energy and exhausted every last drop of oxygen you had in you. So its just aswell i wasn't the last one up and had time to catch my break for 15/30 minutes before we navigated down the steep inca steps leading all the way down to the camp site.
The third day was tough, made harder by the blisters and aches from the last two days but compared with day 2 it was definetly an improvement. If i paint a picture of this trek as some impossible path that only made me ache in every possible place then i dont mean to, it was definetly one of the most physically demanding things i've done but the scenery more than makes up for it and machu picchu, well machu picchu has to be seen.
On day four we got up at 4am, reached the initial check point at 4 15 and waited till half past 5 for a ranger to open the gate and let us pass, needless to say we were the first group at this check point, who else would be mad enough to arrive an hour early?
We were told once again the last day is eaaaasy, no problem. Maybe so if you just trek on the last day and skip the first 3 days, if not then you're already spent from the previous trekking. We were estimated an hours trek to the sun gate from which we got our first views of machu picchu but most of us made it in 40 minutes, some of it in even 30. The adrenaline rushing through you and the eagerness to be amongst the first to see the mountain propel you and push you past your bodies limitations but of course the last bit is always the hardest and when you can see the sun gate up there in front of you, and all that stands in your way is a series of steep inca stairs you're giving your last bit of air, puffing and panting, running on empty just to get there, knowing once you're there its done, you've beaten the trek.
I always thought my first view of Machu Picchu would be the most special, it wasn't actually. The first view, the view from the sun gate, isn't the best view, although you get a panoramic view and peek at the ruins obscured by the mountain on your left, its another 15/20 minutes limp untill you get that magically postcard view, wayna picchu to your left and the ruins under its shade. By this point you're drained, sweaty, tired, aching, and the view makes up for all of that. Its all well and good looking it up on google or on a postcard, or even taking the train here but in my opinion you can't fully appreciate machu picchu and the work of 50 years that went into building it untill you take the inca trail that the natives took every time they made the pilgrimage to this place. What followed was a two hour tour of the ruins and the quarry where they mined the rocks and then we were left to our devices to climb Wayna Picchu if we wanted, it was of course purely optional but Victor rightly so reccomened it as it may be the last time we get the chance to.
I took a deep breath in and took the path up Wayna Picchu, i suffer from Vertigo now and again and this was a bad time to get it. The path was pretty sketchy at times and on more than one occasion all that saved you from a painful fall was a rope to hold yourself up with or the stone wall along some passes. Just before the top i was feeling pretty rough and the steep steps up with a sheer drop on one side didnt help, i looked down and nearly didn't go on but i was nearly there now so i had to give it a shot. Somehow against my better judgement i got to the top, i was scared as anything but i'd done it! I made way down and had a short rest before i took the next bus to Aguas Callientes, our meeting point.
Throughout the trek the porters that carried our bags put every tourist on the trek to shame, most of them weren't over 5"5 and cant have weighed more than ten stone at most but each porter carried 25kg on their backs and with nothing more than sandals on their feet got to every camp site hours before any of us and despite all this they clapped us when we reached the camp site. These people have a bmi of practically no fat whatsoever to manage this once let alone 5 times a month like these people do but i suppose they have no other choice as they dont have any degrees and agriculture doesnt pay well.
The trel left me exhausted even after a days rest but also proud to have seen it as i don't know if i'll get such an opportunity again.
Scribbled By Dejan @ 5:03:00 PM,
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Cuzco
Sunday, 27 May 2007
8 hours on a bus never felt so long, we'd booked a tourist class ticket only to be thrown on a shitty semi-local bus just before our departure, the company clearly had some sort of commision deal with locals as we stopped every 10 minutes so that old ladies could sell us stale cheese and bread, thanks but i think i'll pass. By the time we'd gone half way everyone on the bus was getting sick of it, people started stomping on the floor and banging on windows with their fists in anger but the driver wasn't fazed, i wouldn't be suprised if it was routine for him.
We knew our hostel was on a hill, thats kind of why we chose it so that we could get fit before the inca trail, what we didn't realise was just how steep this hill was and how unhealthy we were, in my defense even locals were puffing and panting up it! One pay off of being in a hostel on a hill was that the views from the hostel bar were pretty good, a view of practically the entire city including the footbll stadium and airport on the other side, but with that comes the negative of having to climb an incline higher than 'mount' tabor in portland, oregon every time you want to get back to the hostel.
Cusco is a town thats embraced its past, it was the capital of the shortlived inca empire before the conquistadors came in and overthrew the defsneless incas whose knowledge of war was pretty worthless compared to the spaniards, reseating the capital in lima. Thanks to the discovery of Machu Picchu by Hiram Bingham Cusco enjoyed a revival and new beggining as a tourist town. Walking down cusco's main square or narrow side streets you won't see too much inca architecture as the spaniards tore most of it down, stole the gold leaf from religious buildings, and erected churches but go into any of the multitude of tourist shops, trust me they're not hard to find on any street in this town, and you're sure to find all manner of inca crafts from alpaca rugs and clothing to inca style ceramics. Aside from the usual handicrafts you'd expect to find theres also a lot of chess sets in all shapes and sizes, the special thing about these sets is that they depict the war of peru, incas verses conquiestadors. You can't say cusco hasn't taken the spanish occupation and turned it into a money maker. The main square, or plaza de arms, is a small but busy area, walking down it is like walking down a tourist mine field, dozens of locals jump out and beg you to have a massage or do a tour. These same people stay out all night and when the party crowd comes out tempt gringos to various bars with free drinks vouchers.
A night out in cusco is unlke any i've seen before, the town takes on a whole new look, all the shops close and suddenly bars appear out of no where, door men man doors in the main square you'd be hard pushed to find in the day time when they look as inconspicuous as abandoned buildings. If you look local nobody will bat an eyelid at you however if they suspect you're a gringo then expect to be bombarded with people running at you literally pulling you in every direction and plying you with free drinks vouchers. We went out with a canadian called Glenn that we met in the hostel bar on the 2nd night, we were hoping to go to a place called the Blueberry lounge that Glenn had heard good things about however we soon gave in to the pressure of free mystery mixers and went on a free bar crawl for the whole night long, never even finding the Blueberry lounge in the end. The bars here were mostly gringo infested seeing as it was the start of high season for machu picchu visits however we did stumble into one local bar where we were the only gringos and everyone stared at us when we walked in. By the end of the night the lure of free drinks started waning but not before Tim and Glenn danced on the bar of one the places and we met a group very drunk spaniards and a iranian canadian who sounded like a new yorker even though he came from the opposite coast. By the time we left for the hostel we were being yelled at and kicked out of places, 'why you gringos no buy drinks?', because we're getting FREE drinks all night, thats why.
On our third day in cusco i fell ill, i got a bit of a temperature and was feeling nasueaus, light sensitive, and felt sick. In the evening i had to call a doctor over to the hostel to be on the safe side as i felt awful and he told me i was likely allergic to the anti-malarial drug i was taking, i was to stop taking it immediately and he gave me 3 pills to take before my next check up tommorow. Right after taking the first one at 8pm i ran to the bathroom and violently vommited up 5 consecutive times, mean while 2 guys were just checking into our dorm room and the first thing they heard was me throwing up in the bathroom, i wish i knew what they were thinking.
There are plenty of markets in cusco and we only went to 2 large ones but they seem to all sell the same stuff really apart from the electronics market which, you guessed it deals in all things electric aswell as some clothing , including all your favourite brands such as Sonia stereos and Adibas trainers. Pirate dvds and cds are a huge ecoconomy here and you'd be hard pushed to find anything thats genuine and if you do you wouldnt bother buying it as its even more expensive than the UK. A second local economy thats pretty common here is fresh juices, there are countless stalls in and outside markets where you can order a fruit juice made right in front of you, we tried one with Glenn at a market where four 4 rows of fruit juice stalls with women yelling and flagging you down with newspapers. The choices of juice ranged from the exotic to the plain and then to something called the special which i believe may have included beer in the mix. I went for a thick orange juice which was pretty tasty and filled you up like a meal.
Food in cusco is plentiful and varied, as in any tourist town you can find pretty much any cuisine you want from the standard burgers and fries, authentic peruvian cuisine, italian, mexican, chinese, even Indian, so you're never at a loss for choice. We tried quite a few cuisines available here, from posh but pretencious polenta to authentic andean food. One of our first meals was at a posh little place, the kind where your plate is 3/4 empty, 15 minutes go to cooking, and 30 on presentation. The first time we went we had tapas, i've never had it before so im no judge on what it looks like but this stuff was clearly not run of the mill spanish food, there was so much effort put into making it something 'special' it turned into a ridiculous fusion of flavours. We never learnt our lesson it seems because we returned there another day with Glenn and Blake, Tim ordered a pasta dish which came to him as 4 large past quills on an over sized plate, Glenn ordered what was an anorexics serving of potato salad, and i got polenta that looked like some one had already chewed it, tasty. The joke was on us because Blake ordered a sandwhich, it was the cheapest meal of the lot and actually deserved the title of main course because unlike ours his dish was actually a beast of a sandwhich.
Peru has 2 main national dishes depending on whether you're on the coast or by the andes, ceviche and Alpaca. I'm not a fan of sea food but here i was in peru so i had to at least try ceviche once. If you don't know what it is then think sushi, its a platter of raw sea food seasoned with a lot of lemon, sweet potatoe, and mild spices. It wasn't long before the plate arrived and i was facd with the confusing task of working my way into it, first came the shrimp which i had to dissect to get to the meat, then muscles, and other sea food i wouldn't even recognise. I'm not one for fish so this was a little strange and not really to my taste, the taste of the sea doesnt really appeal to me but i gave it a go anyway and it was pretty good for dissected sea life. I'd tried llama in bolivia and so alpaca was a must, the dish i ordered was Alpaca with andean sauce, no idea what andean sauce is but as i was a stones throw from the andes it seemed a fitting choice. I don't know if mine was overcooked or something but where llama steak was juicy alpaca was tough and chewy, cutting it practically wore me out and the andean sauce it was soaked in made it taste worse. I don't know whats in the sauce but it was a green colour so maybe pistachio or peanuts because it was too salty to be avocado, the sauce ruined the meat but there was so much of it that you couldn't get away from the stuff. The peanut soup (apparantely a Mexican dish) i ordered as an entree with my alpaca was a lot nicer, tasted a lot like you'd expect but delicious rather than just salty, the soup was so filling that by the time my huge alpaca steak came i was already full.
Although our experience of Cusco before the Inca Trail was pretty limited considering we'd spent a week here without doing one touristy thing apart from visiting the tourist markets i really liked the city, i liked the look of the place, the architecture, the culture, it was just one of those times when you just settle into a city and don't really have to do much to enjoy it. Now roll on 25 miles of trekking on the Inca Trail!
Scribbled By Dejan @ 5:07:00 PM,
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Puno
Saturday, 26 May 2007
Puno, Peru
Expecting the worst from our bus from Copacabana to Puno, I was actually pretty suprised when the bus pulled off on time and took us all the way across the Bolivian/Peruvian border, the same border we had been across just two days before. The same shoeshine boy was there, he had an excellent memory for peoples faces, and greeted people he remembered and asked for foreign coins from other people. He was very popular, and got his foreign cons, he must have quite a collection.
Puno isnt an attractive town, most building are concrete with steel supports sprouting forth from the tops waiting for a seconds storey that may never be built. There are two types of taxis, shitty little motobike taxis which look very unstable, however most of them had Batman mural painted on the back of them. Hmm, Im not sure whos gonna be fooled by that, No cars in Peru quite match up to the Batmobile.
We decided to make the effort to go to a Hostel specifically, so we could talk to people again, Though cheap, Hostals with an a not an e, were boring, no social areas. Our Hostel, Virgen de Copacabana, or something to that efefct, was in fact, empty, so yet again we had no one to talk to. We decided to arrange a Tour of the Uros floating islands and the peruvian side of lake titicaca. We were gonna be picked up at 6.30am, so I needed an early night. at nearly I got into bed. But then it dawned on us, was Peru time, the same time as Bolivian time. We had no idea, and searched through our guidebooks hoping it would tell us such a small fact. In the end we scared the crap out of the Hostel Staff by shouting !¿WHAT TIME IS IT?¡ at them, turned out i had got into bed at 8. I felt pretty stupid for some reason.
6.30 and it was freezing, Puno and the whole take titicaca region seem to have a problem with no heating or hot water. So after much shivering, we got picked up and whisked away to the Boats. Not before entering traffic, 6.45am and ahead of us was a marching band piping away. The night before we had witnessed 3 different marching bands in 5 minutes. It must be the craze here, like happy slapping, except peruvian youth have got the exact opposite, and are taking their trends from the salvation army. But 6.45 in the morning honestly, who could face that.
The boat was helluv different from the Bolivian one, we had nice soft reclining chairs and a man who played pan pipe and charanga versions of beatles songs. We even had a tour guide who claimed his name was Julio Iglesias. Anyway, we arrived at the Uros floating islands, and to be honest the whole thing was a lesson in Tourism destroying local culture. The islanders, who lived among the reeds waved at us and sang song as we came aboard their islands, they then posed and pretended to be going about their day whilst at the same time keeping a money pot in hand watching for anyone wanting to take a photo of them. Julio explained that 19 out of 24 islands welcomed tourists, 6 refused, good for them. As we left, they sang twinkle twinkle in bad english. Some people enjoyed it, I felt kinda weird about the whole thing, but ah well, i paid for it the same with everyone else.
Moving onward to Taquile island we hiked a bit more, good preparation for the Inca Trail, we were again accosted by locals with crap to sell. Sr. Iglesias took us to a restaurant so he could get a free meal at our expense. Ah well. We met a cool bunch of people, two doctors from nottingham, and old family from South Carolina, and a very proud yorkshireman. That night we all hit the town and met some dirrty southerners. Who were very mouthy when drunk, but all we did was fuel the mouthiness with pisco sours. it was funny, towards midnight, I ended up just watching this mouth londer going at it with the 60year old yorkshireman, it was pretty funny. But time to call it a night, early bus to cuzco in the morning, we headed back to our Hosepedaje via an ensuing riot between the cops and some drunk peruvian men, We manged to get past them whilst they were repeatedly hitting a passed out drunk man. Maybe it was a marching band that go out of hand.
Puno isnt an attractive town, most building are concrete with steel supports sprouting forth from the tops waiting for a seconds storey that may never be built. There are two types of taxis, shitty little motobike taxis which look very unstable, however most of them had Batman mural painted on the back of them. Hmm, Im not sure whos gonna be fooled by that, No cars in Peru quite match up to the Batmobile.
We decided to make the effort to go to a Hostel specifically, so we could talk to people again, Though cheap, Hostals with an a not an e, were boring, no social areas. Our Hostel, Virgen de Copacabana, or something to that efefct, was in fact, empty, so yet again we had no one to talk to. We decided to arrange a Tour of the Uros floating islands and the peruvian side of lake titicaca. We were gonna be picked up at 6.30am, so I needed an early night. at nearly I got into bed. But then it dawned on us, was Peru time, the same time as Bolivian time. We had no idea, and searched through our guidebooks hoping it would tell us such a small fact. In the end we scared the crap out of the Hostel Staff by shouting !¿WHAT TIME IS IT?¡ at them, turned out i had got into bed at 8. I felt pretty stupid for some reason.
6.30 and it was freezing, Puno and the whole take titicaca region seem to have a problem with no heating or hot water. So after much shivering, we got picked up and whisked away to the Boats. Not before entering traffic, 6.45am and ahead of us was a marching band piping away. The night before we had witnessed 3 different marching bands in 5 minutes. It must be the craze here, like happy slapping, except peruvian youth have got the exact opposite, and are taking their trends from the salvation army. But 6.45 in the morning honestly, who could face that.
The boat was helluv different from the Bolivian one, we had nice soft reclining chairs and a man who played pan pipe and charanga versions of beatles songs. We even had a tour guide who claimed his name was Julio Iglesias. Anyway, we arrived at the Uros floating islands, and to be honest the whole thing was a lesson in Tourism destroying local culture. The islanders, who lived among the reeds waved at us and sang song as we came aboard their islands, they then posed and pretended to be going about their day whilst at the same time keeping a money pot in hand watching for anyone wanting to take a photo of them. Julio explained that 19 out of 24 islands welcomed tourists, 6 refused, good for them. As we left, they sang twinkle twinkle in bad english. Some people enjoyed it, I felt kinda weird about the whole thing, but ah well, i paid for it the same with everyone else.
Moving onward to Taquile island we hiked a bit more, good preparation for the Inca Trail, we were again accosted by locals with crap to sell. Sr. Iglesias took us to a restaurant so he could get a free meal at our expense. Ah well. We met a cool bunch of people, two doctors from nottingham, and old family from South Carolina, and a very proud yorkshireman. That night we all hit the town and met some dirrty southerners. Who were very mouthy when drunk, but all we did was fuel the mouthiness with pisco sours. it was funny, towards midnight, I ended up just watching this mouth londer going at it with the 60year old yorkshireman, it was pretty funny. But time to call it a night, early bus to cuzco in the morning, we headed back to our Hosepedaje via an ensuing riot between the cops and some drunk peruvian men, We manged to get past them whilst they were repeatedly hitting a passed out drunk man. Maybe it was a marching band that go out of hand.
Scribbled By Tim @ 4:51:00 PM,
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Hotest place south of Havana?
Wednesday, 23 May 2007
Our coach taking us to Copacabana was supposed to pick us up at 7 15 and we were told to be ready at 7am so we woke up about half an hour early, giving us plenty of time. One thing we forgot was that there is a 4 time difference between here and the uk, im not talking gmt-4 and all that gibberish, a lesser known fact is that bolvian time is routinely veeeery flexible and 7 15am can easily mean 8am or even later for no explicit reason.
Once we'd left La Paz eating our dust our hosts kindly let us all know there was a roadblock (something about increased road tax i think) along the way so we had to take an alternate route, no problem though as that was only to take another 1/2 hour. Ok that may have been a teeny fib on their behalf as what was meant to be 1/2 hour was actually over an hour and by alternate route they meant they would drop us off past the peruvian border and then leave us to make our own way to copacabana. Fantastic. Of course everyone protested, took down staffs details for complaints (really not worth it in Bolivia where a relaxed pace of life is an art form), and demanded the company pay the extra 7bs for the mini van across the border and then the cab fare to copacabana, 'no es mi problem' apparantely. 14 of us shared a cramped mini bus for a further hour páid for out of our own pocket whilst our luggage hung above us on the roof precariously balanced on this van that tossed and turned left and right at every pothole and struggled to reach speeds higher than 20mph. Somehow we made it, luggage intact, and we all went our merry way to the peruvian immigration officials so we could be stamped on our way out. The officials took a liking to me and searched my belongings, don't worry they didnt find the crack i smuggled in.
We shared a cab with some 'merkans and went to the first hotel on our list, a place so shifty they wanted no ID, no names, no money up front, no nothing untill we checked out. Tim did well to notice that over 5 members of staff had an eye missing for some reason, i'm sure they just all happend to lose them in a mass scissor carrying while running incident.
On our second day we woke up early yet again to give us time for breakfast and to book tickets for the 8 30am tour. We stopped for breakfast at the first place we noticed, a tiny little hole in the wall kind of place with no more than 3 tables and an elderly woman who mistook Tims request of mueli for sugar puffs with bananas and yoghurt.
On the boat to Isla Del Sol we all got on the top deck, really just the roof with two benches stretched across the length of the boat. Once the boat left the harbour, winds tossed the boat around like a plaything and froze us all, making us regret ever thinking to go on the top deck. Needless to say everyone sat on the bottom deck on the way back and i wondered if everyone who´d done this tour made the same mistake as us.
We were all dropped off at the north pier of the island and told we had around 3 or 3 1/2 hours to walk the distance of the island down to the south pier where we´d be picked up. At first 3 hours seemed cutting it a little thin but in the end i managed it in around 2 hours. The path down the island was pretty clear so you couldn´t really get lost without trying and it followed the perimeter giving you constant views of the lake and the distant royal mountains crowned with snow on their summits. A few miles into the walk we stumbled upon a tour of the ´museum´ and thinking it was the only way down to the south we paid the 10bs fee to gain entrance. Perhaps museum was a little misleading a word to use as the place in question was actually ruins and a short guided walk by a spanish speaking guide. I didn´t really understand much of the spanish so the guide portion was pretty redundant but the ruins were quite interesting, especially the small maze of intertwining tunnels and rooms that somehow all joined together. On the way back from the museum we realised we didn´t actually have to go there as it wasnt on our route but it wasn´t much money wasted anyway. Back on the beaten path Tim and I went at our own paces and i sped ahead trying to get some good excercise done in preperation for Machhu Pichhu. The majority of the route was a collection of steep hills, firzt you go up puffing and panting wondering if you can go any further and then you´re rewarded with an easy walk down for just long enough for you to catch your breath again before another steep incline. The scenery varied quite a bit, all the while the mountains and lake were visible but the immediate vicinity varied from small forests to red rock and to villages. On the last stretch of the walk you entered one of the main villages and little kids constantly begged for sweets but all i had to offer was water, probably not the worthers or snickers they envisaged. Most of us arrived at the meet point at least 1/2 early and when Tim arrived he brought with a group of four British guys he´d been walking with. They´d been all around the world on their trip and had recently walked Machhu Picchu so we mainly talked about that and in the evening 3 of them and a japanese man joined us for dinner at a local restaurant where we had our first 3 course meal since i can remember on this trip. After dinner we all went our seperate ways, meeting again by chance the next morning hanging around the main square.
Our stay in Copacabana was pretty short lived but we did pretty much everything without rushing it so we left on third day ready to take on Puno and the floating islands.
Scribbled By Dejan @ 4:20:00 PM,
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